The Everything Ultimatum

I always had this sneaking suspicion that if I climbed more than one day a month I might be a happy climber again....

But living on Vancouver Island meant I worked a lot, then would try to plan a Squamish trip, catch a ferry that might be cancelled, full, recently hit a dock and destroyed it... or it would rain. Or I would get one amazing weekend, realize that I can actually climb ---- and then not get back to Squamish for a month or more. At which point I have forgotten how to climb and back to Square One. 

However, having moved to PoCo I thought that would change. Last summer, once the raining finally stopped (August, was that?) we went climbing a few times, and kept climbing slab. Marc would lead a lot, and I would whimper. I HATE slab. Featureless, slippery or grippy, I can never tell, stupid insecure  run- out pro.... mmm slab. 

This however, is the Summer of Sun. We ran up to Squamish for some climbing as early as May, went to Red Rocks, bouldered on hot days - and in the last week climbed a lot of slab. Hey - I LIKE some slab! Not sure about the leading, but it is sticky, for the most part, and I'm starting to see features.  Amazing what little crystals, divets and slopey waves of rock can do!

I haven't been to the very top of the Chief yet - despite innumerable trips up the Apron. The easiest line is the "Ultimate Everything" - long, but easy. Take the easiest route up the Apron, then either up Broomstick 5.7 for 2 pitches or anything you want, then hike to the base of the South Buttress and climb for 10 pitches......

We prepared. 

Preparing for a climbing day can be hard work. Chocolate waffles.....

We did a few prep runs up the Apron, simo (simul?) climbing some routes, even climbed Snake just for kicks. This is a good picture of me, because you can't see my face.

Anchored on Snake 

On D-Day - we got up nice and early and started at the very bottom, pretty much road level. We simo (again - simo- or simul-? "simo sounds bad-ass, like a sumo wrestler. Simul- sounds like a nutritional supplement, like a colon cleanse. But that could be fast, which is the point of simul-climbing...and Sumo wrestlers would be hard on a rope) So, we simul-climbed the bottom pitches, with me leading just for kicks. Marc took over where I stopped, and then led up Banana Peel, a lovely and completely run out slab up the Apron. We pitched out the first one, then simul-climbed to the top. I was wearing my watch, and at this point we were about 2 hours since the start, which was pretty much record time for us.

Hike to the base of the Buttress, and then up we went. Hard pitches alternate easier ones, so climbing them together is tough because no one wants to be on the hard one as a simul-climber, so we kept pitching them out. Slow, but fun. Marc started with all the hard leads, because he's cool. And I hated his pitches even on second.  I kept checking time, and it was 2:20 in the afternoon. For several pitches. Being an excellent diagnostician I decide that we have the ability to stop time. This is a handy superpower.

After a while my pitches went from romping up 5.7 to a layback-then-mantle 5.9. Fun, and easy cruising to the anchor. Quite a few more pitches, and Marc's leads became slightly easier, and the alternate ones (mine) picked up a touch. I led the amazing traverse - and placed gear, clinging tenuously to the rock, and then noted the giant bolt they'd placed for me that I missed on my initial scan around. Not once, but three times.....

Then there was the last few, and I felt obliged to take the last 5.9, then he would take the 5.4 and the 5.10. My 5.9 was a little stouter than imagined until I actually found the secret handholds. Twice. Style may have been poorer than I care to admit to, but in the end I was at the anchor.

Marc led up the last headwall - super cool wall, great pitch - and very intimidating once you're in it. I'm sure the blank wall had some footholds, and maybe next time I get there I'll see them, but at this point it was pretty dubiously blank for a section. One of those climbs I'll do in a few years and think "How did I not see THAT giant foothold (tiny wrinkle in the rock) last time?"

This is the top. YAY!!!!!

Marc at the last anchor

Squamish and Howe Sound Below

Garibaldi in the Background. Sandwich time, which is why I can't look at you

We seem to have also developed the ability to restart time, which is good for the rest of the universe. Unfortunately we do not have the power to restart my watch, but I'm sure a watchmaker with fresh batteries does. 

We got home in time to have dinner and for me to sleep really well until the alarm went off. As always, much to soon - but isn't that everyone's dilemma?

Summer on The Rock

I FINALLY went to Newfoundland!!!
Since that is where Marc is from, and I was in St Johns once since we've been married, we decided a trip to his home town of Rocky Harbour was long overdue. Rocky Harbour is a small town right in the middle of Gros Morne National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. He left a week before me and visited family and friends in St Johns, on the other side of the island, and I flew into Deer Lake an hour from Rocky Harbour for a week of sunshine, family, friends, hiking and amazing scenery.
Since I usually write and have no pictures, I will change this blog entirely. So much so that you'll think you're on someone else's blog...

The hospitality shown by Marc's relatives was truly amazing, and we ate, drank and talked and I got to meet a lot of people that I can't wait to see again. We did take some time out to burn off some calories and go for a hike or two,

The main hike is called the Long Range Trail, and it starts with a short walk in to Western Brook Pond, then an hour boat ride into the "Pond" to get to the trailhead. Up the fjord to the plateau on top, and then along the plateau south to Gros Morne itself. There are 4 campsites, but having stuff to be at we only stayed 2 overnights.

Foggy walk in to Western Brook Pond

Western Brook "Pond" - the boat to take sightseers for a loop around and us to the start

Fog clearing in the Fjord that surrounds the Pond as the Boat is leaving

Trail friend

Looking back down Western Brook "Pond" 

Walking along the Plateau

Campsite next to a small pond

Campsite view in the early morning

More walking

Looking down into another Fjord

The next few days were spent exploring around Rocky Harbour. The sky gave for dramatic pictures. This is where Marc grew up playing on the beaches.

Newfoundland "Beaches" 

Rocky Harbour Lighthouse. Notice the dramatic sky?? Huh ? Pretty dramatic wouldn't you agree?

Marc has LOTS of relatives in Rocky Harbour. Among them are Bonnie and Jason and their kids Emma and Benjamin. Not only did they feed us and ply us with alcohol several times, but Bonnie and Jason and both kids came for an overnight hike in to Green Gardens. The trail leaves the parking lot, heads up over a hill and down the far side to the ocean. Benjamin, all of 6 years old, carried his little backpack and drove us onwards like a little slave driver. He would allow occasional stops, but after about 36 seconds would follow it with "Can we go NOW?". 1.5 hrs each way, and he never slowed up or allowed us to! 

 There is a 50 foot wide swath of meadow on top of the cliffs, and a staircase so you can get down and play on the beach. 

Meadowy bits

with Stairs

Rocky bits

Emma and Benjamin playing

Campsite

 The next morning Benjamin kept exclaiming how amazingly well he'd slept for his first night in a tent. Jason and Benjamin had set up the tent on the actual tenting platform, which is made of 2*4 wood, and I can't recall how many times Benjamin mentioned the "incredibly soft wood" which had made for such a great sleep. Jason may not have completely agreed with him, but it was really very funny.

We made the hike out in good time and headed back in for our last night on the Rock. Unfortunately all good things have to come to an end, and we flew back to real life in Vancouver. It was a wonderful time and I can't imagine a single thing that would have made it better.

Life has been crazy busy in the few weeks since, and I'll have to catch up a bit more. I also know there's been a lot of holidaying out there, and I'm anxious to hear about some of that too!

My Summer Holiday

Today was the official first day of my summer holiday. I will have to post about my mom's visit sometime too, because she was here for 2 weeks, and I thought we had an amazing time. We kept her to 2 activities a day, which seemed appropriate. After all - what's the point in travelling to BC if you're not going to see as much as you can? My awesome mother went hiking, orienteering (twice), to a dressage show, to Fort Langley, the Vancouver Aquarium, Science World, Stanley Park, to the Bloedel Conservatory, horseback riding on Icelandic ponies, cheered me through a mountain bike race and was disappointed that Marc (at my request) didn't take her to see the sketchy downhill carnage part, went bouldering (okay, she may not have actually bouldered, but it was close). She also baked a giant cake, met our friends and many other things.

But that's a story for another blog, because it'll take me a bit longer. Who knows if it will ever be written?

Marc left for Newfoundland last week, which was the unofficial start of my holiday. Somehow I thought that with Marc gone there would not be any dirty dishes, and dinner would miraculously appear and there would be leftovers for days. Shockingly I discovered that I can also create a pile of dishes, and still dislike washing them just as much. And I drank the beer. Which I knew I would, but I hoped it would happen slower and there would be one for now.

I also thought it would be interesting to find out what I would do if I was on my own and didn't have someone planting ideas in my head or dragging me off constantly to run/ride/climb/paddle....  To my great dismay it turns out what I'd really like to do is sleep. Since the house temperature is mimicking the great outdoor heat wave this week, what I would love to do in between nightshifts is sleep in a house where the temperature is approximately 1 million degrees and wake up crabby. And turn on a propane torch and a kiln to make glass melt - which as it turns out is not a lot of fun when it's this hot. Surprise, I know. So there's no glass to show for a week of "time". I can also eat whatever I want. As long as it doesn't involve turning on the stove and making more heat in the house. So I eat whatever type of cold salad I want.

Yesterday before work I rode my big bike Burke, and had a blast. Lovely trails, even repeated my little baby jump from the last group ride, and added a few more baby jumps to the repertoire. I forgot that little jumps are actually really easy, and surprisingly I know how to do them. While jumping is easy, deciding that it's a wise idea to jump off things in the middle of the woods riding by yourself is a bit more difficult. But it was super fun and a good time was had by all! (Matilda, Pippa and my bike)

Yesterday was my last work shift until July 17th, so today is my first true holi-day. I fly to Newfoundland Friday morning, so I have 3 days to discover what I would like to do when left to my own devices.
Today I decided to go to Squamish to go bouldering. This involved getting up early to get there when it was cool. And then remembering that I can't take the HOV lane through Vancouver even if Mattie was in the passenger seat, so I drank coffee and did some "stuff" until around 10. Clear sailing all the way to Squamish. IT'S GOING TO BE AWESOME!!!!

I grabbed the odds and ends I brought, and realized I didn't bring a bag to put them in (?Stupid or what?) and stuff my pockets. Dogs hop out and off we go, carrying a crash pad into the forest. I was here after the Test of Metal, and in the giant boulderfield that runs along the bottom of the Chief I expect to trip over the boulders we were on last time. I pass about 8 million boulders, some with happy people playing on them. THIS, I thought, is going to be SO much FUN!!!

I stop and pull out a guidebook. It lists all the pretty rocks and where to find them and what to climb on them. By name. Which is great, except I don't remember any names except the one called Cheesegrater. I run into other people - also consulting guidebook while walking around rocks. One of them is quite friendly, but the other two lads ignore me because after all, they're cool.... and I'm not.  Nonchalantly, I continue on, because I'm so cool - I even know where I'm going, can't ya tell! Cool incarnate, oh yeah, that's me, walkin' through the boulder field with my crashpad.

I finally find a big giant rock, about 25 feet high, and behind it is the Cheesegrater. Yay! I know where I am!!! Of course, I have no idea where we climbed, but it must be nearby....  Oh boy, I think. This is going to be so much FUN! I start heading for the Cheesegrater, since it's saved me from wandering aimlessly forever, but then I remember that the top out is a bit sketchy and I had 2 spotters to make sure I hit one of the two crashpads we had with us. And even then I knew if I slid down it I would never have fingerprints again. Despite this being potentially useful, I decide to steer clear of the Cheesy grater.

At some point I call Marc in Newfoundland. Yes, I used the lifeline - and called a friend. "Marc - I'm standing behind the Black Dyke Boulder, the Cheesegrater is to my left. What can I climb?" Marc walks me around the boulder (okay, actually all the way around once) and then helps me find some easy stuff. I climb around, and a real climber comes and joins me. He moves effortlessly, floating upwards without making a sound or a fast move. Poetry. I flail around a corner where no one can see me, and hop down on the mat with a boom. I wander to the easy climb up - and after about 15 feet get to a slightly tougher spot just above me. Hmmmm......  up - and potentially can't downclimb and hate myself? or down. and hate myself. Dilemma. Down. Then back up - easy peesy. But what's ahead - I ask the super-climber and he says it gets a bit blank. Do I want to know what he does there? No, I don't, because then I'll have to consider it. And if I can't find the way, I shouldn't be 20 feet off the deck thinking about it. Down. Damnit. Super-climber is joined by a gaggle of super-climbers, and I head back up the trail looking cool. Super cool in fact. Walkin' through the woods with my crash pad lookin' cool....

I did find some easy stuff, and had a lovely young woman show me her warm up boulder problems. She doesn't seem to have a muscle on her, but she floated up progressively tougher problems. As the problems get harder, I get choppier - grabbing at granite and swinging. At some point I am pulling and torquing as hard as I can - and it's looking really good as I reach up but that's because my ass is still on the crashpad rather than me actually hanging by my fingertips. A man joins us, and I am secretly thrilled that he can't get off the ground either. She asks me what kind of bouldering project I have, and I laugh. I ride my bike I say, to help her understand why I suck. She heads off to her project leaving me with the rocks and a climber determined to go from V5 to V5 problem, never actually getting more than 6 inches off the ground. But grunting a lot.

At this point I should have settled on the bouldering pad under a tree and had a nap. But I decided to find a few more easy boulders. Mattie insisted on hopping off a boulder and then limping, and since she does have a sore paw occasionally and is going to the sitters for 10 days of walks in the woods I decide that she needs to ice it.

We head off up the road to the Mamquam river, which is a lovely grey of glacial silt and fast moving currents this time of year. I find a trail, and we follow a lady and her dog down to the river. My best-behaved dogs who have been great all day are getting a talking to for barking when the lady crosses the little river and continues upstream. At the river's edge Matilda hops in, Pippa close behind. I step in cautiously, hoping this is where she went because I can't see anything as the river is completely opaque grey with silt. Several minutes later, I stand on the sandbar where I meant to go. I am now carrying cell phone and wallet in my hand because I'm soaked from the waist down. The water's lovely - if cold enough to rip off your feet in about 4 seconds. And it takes 6 to cross the little river. We stay and play for a bit, because it's really hot and I can't get wetter. Mattie doesn't want to get back in the car, but it's the only way home. I should have stayed for a nap here, but wasn't thinking very well.

Unbeknownst to me, there was an event today called "Everyone go drive on the highway between 4 and 5 pm", but eventually I got home.

Whatever will tomorrow bring?